Help Shine the Light of Transparency on ALEC
Personal Care Products Council
The Personal Care Products Council (previously the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association or CTFA) is an industry group comprised of more than 600 member companies.   Its website states: 
- "CTFA strives to ensure that the personal care products industry has the freedom to pursue creative product development and compete in a fair and responsible marketplace. CTFA represents the industry's interests at the local, state, national, and international levels, promoting voluntary industry self-regulation and reasonable governmental requirements that support the health and safety of consumers."
Cosmetic Ingredient Review
CTFA established the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) in 1976, "with support of the U.S. Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America."  CTFA funds CIR, but claims that it "assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics in an unbiased, independent forum with an expert panel comprised of world-renowned physicians and scientists." 
2008 meeting focus
The newly-renamed Personal Care Products Council geared its annual meeting in February 2008 towards "exploring retail consolidation, consumer ingredient concerns -- often fueled by criticism from consumer watchdog groups -- and supply chain integrity with keynote speakers and breakout sessions," according to Women's Wear Daily. "Now we focus on reaching out to consumers to make sure that they have what they need in terms of product safety [information]," said PCPC Chair Marc Pritchard. 
DEA safety concerns
After his research found that diethanolamine, or DEA, "slows the creation of brain cells vital to memory in rodents," the University of North Carolina nutritionist Dr. Steven Zeisel suggested that pregnant women "check shampoo and sunblock labels," to avoid products with DEA. "I'm not saying I know women will do harm. My personal choice would be to heed this warning. Why use shampoo and sunblock containing DEA until research under way is complete?" Zeisel asked.  CTFA's John Bailey questioned Zeisel's warning. "The exposure is, by all measures we can see, thousands or tens of thousands times lower than reported in [Zeisel's] paper," he told the Raleigh News & Observer. 
Nanotech safety concerns
In mid-2006, a coalition of environmental groups asked the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to regulate the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics, saying their safety had not yet been determined. Two groups, Friends of the Earth and International Center for Technology Assessment, filed a formal petition with the agency. The petition "coincided with the release of a report by the groups that highlighted the number of personal care products with nanoingredients." The report states that nanoparticles are "used extensively in more than 116 sunscreens, cosmetics and personal care products," according to the San Francisco Chronicle. 
The FDA "plans an October meeting to discuss the new kinds of nanotechnology materials being developed for use in the products it regulates, including drugs, food, cosmetics and medical devices," reported AP.  The SF Chronicle reported, "Animal studies have shown that some nanoparticles can penetrate cells and tissues, move through the body and brain and cause biochemical damage. But whether cosmetics and sunscreens containing nanomaterials pose health risks remains largely unknown, pending completion of long-range studies recently begun by the FDA and other agencies." 
CTFA's executive vice-president for science, John Bailey, claimed, "The amount of knowledge that we have for the safety of these materials is more than adequate to deal with their safety in the marketplace. That, combined with the FDA's authority to seek more information if they require, combine to form a powerful check and balance." 
Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
In 2002, a coalition of environmental and public health groups calling themselves the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics released its first report, "Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA." The report stated: 
- "Major loopholes in federal law allow the $20-billion-a-year cosmetics industry to put unlimited amounts of phthalates into many personal care products with no required testing, no required monitoring of health effects, and no required labeling. ... In animal tests some phthalates damage the developing testes of offspring and cause malformations of the penis and other parts of the reproductive tract. The same phthalates that cause permanent harm of the male reproductive system in laboratory studies are also found in hair spray, deodorant, and fragrances."
Harvard professor Russ Hauser, described by the San Jose Mercury News as one of "the few researchers to have studied phthalates in humans," said in 2005 that, "There's not enough human data to say they are safe and don't cause health effects. But, on the other hand, there's not a lot of human data showing they do." Hauser's research team "found that some phthalates may cause sperm abnormalities" (Julie Sevrens Lyons, "Chemicals' Toxicity Debated; Phthalates Are Used in Personal Products," San Jose Mercury News (California), May 18, 2005). The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics urges cosmetics companies to "pledge to remove toxic chemicals and replace them with safer alternatives in every market they serve."  In CTFA's 2005 annual report, CTFA chair Marc Pritchard stated: 
- "Activist groups are attacking us on several fronts and taking their messages to consumers. ... I would like to see us reach out more to connect with others regarding the positive philanthropy efforts of our industry. We should reach out to FDA, state and local governments, thought leaders and influencers to help them understand all of the good that we do, and be ready to aggressively respond to our opponents when necessary and appropriate."
In March 2006, at its annual meeting, CTFA announced five "consumer-oriented industry initiatives" seemingly crafted in order to address and neutralize the challenges from "activist groups." As quoted in a CTFA press release, Pritchard said, "[T]he world is changing, with better consumer technology moving information and unfortunately misinformation, at lightning speed. These initiatives will empower our consumers by giving them easy access to user-friendly, accurate information, and the facts and context they need." 
As described by CTFA, the initiatives, which "will be further developed in 2006 and implemented in 2007," are the following: 
- "A new consumer commitment code," to "reaffirm the industry's commitment to provide safe products";
- "A consumer beauty information web site," billed as "the definitive place to go for consumers seeking information about the science behind cosmetic products and ingredients";
- "A systematic review of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review program," to promote "transparency and clarity," better communications around CIR findings, and possibly "increasing the number of ingredients reviewed";
- "A new global communications infrastructure to assist in the creation of harmonized global regulations for the U.S., Europe, Asia, Latin America, and Canada"; and
- Enhancing "the infrastructure of CTFA."
CTFA's 2005 annual report also warns that "The California legislature passed anti-cosmetics legislation" over the past year. 
SB 484, state legislation "requiring cosmetics and personal care product manufacturers to notify state health officials when using ingredients with potential links to cancer and birth defects," was signed into law by Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger in October 2005. Women's Wear Daily reported (Joanna Ramey, "California Enacts Cosmetics Registry," WWD, October 12, 2005):
- "The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association is very disappointed that the governor signed the damaging and redundant" legislation, the industry's Washington-based lobbying arm said in a statement, noting how "cosmetics and personal care products are already completely safe and well regulated under state and federal law."
- "At issue is a long-brewing battle in California, as well as other states, in which consumer advocates clamor for more public disclosure of cosmetic and personal product ingredients known to be harmful in large concentrations. These chemicals include phthalates, commonly used in hair sprays and deodorants, and formaldehyde, found in nail polish and nail polish remover. Also under fire are preservatives known as parabens. ..."
- "The bill doesn't impose restrictions on ingredient use, but creates a new state regulatory arena to explore questions about safety. The legislation calls for companies to register with state health officials, starting Jan. 1, 2007, any product sold in the state containing "any ingredient that is a chemical identified as causing cancer or reproductive toxicity" . ..."
- "[Bill sponsor Democratic state Sen. Carole] Migden got support from the Breast Cancer Fund and about 150 companies producing mostly products of natural ingredients. These firms signed a Compact for Safe Cosmetics and included The Body Shop International, Burt's Bees and Dr. Bonners' Magical Soap."
- "We are facing increased regulatory clout from the European Union which is affecting our industry on a global basis, notably in China. It is clear that our industry is at a crossroads in the areas of safety, self-regulation and global harmonization, and will require further action on our parts to lead to positive changes in the future that are good for consumers, and good for our industry. ..."
- "With the European Union now larger than the United States market, we can no longer assume the world will follow the US on regulatory matters. In fact, we are seeing safety and regulation issues coming from other markets and impacting us. Some of these influences are certainly welcome if they can level the playing field across markets and make it easier to foster innovation. But some of these forces could impose standards that are not appropriate for every market, and may even inhibit innovation. We must build even stronger links,and indeed alliances, with trade associations around the world-particularly COLIPA in Europe - to work together on a common set of actions."
Environmental Health Network
In the early 1990s, the Environmental Health Network, described as "a grass-roots group formed to raise awareness of [multiple] chemical sensitivity," successfully petitioned the San Francisco city government to declare all governmental public meetings fragrance free. The Dallas Morning News reported (Jane Meredith Adams, "California group raises stink about perfume Members worried about their health laud mayor's decision to hold fragrance-free meetings," The Dallas Morning News, March 19, 1993):
- "The fragrance-free meeting policy was quietly adopted Nov. 30  but it has reeked of controversy in City Hall since the perfume industry sought to have it overturned beginning in January. ..."
- "The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association in Washington has hired a prominent San Francisco public relations firm, Solem & Associates, and has geared up for a possible legal challenge."
- "The industry maintains that the fragrance-free meeting policy impinges on the rights of individuals to wear perfume."
- "In effect it is putting San Francisco in the business of trying to regulate personal hygiene," said Irene L. Malbin, vice president of public affairs for the fragrance association."
Animal rights activism
In 1989, Women's Wear Daily reported, "[T]he Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association promised to launch a counteroffensive aimed at defeating proposed animal testing bans in the eight states in which they are under discussion: California, Pennsylvania, Illinois, New Jersey, Maryland, Connecticut, Hawaii and Massachusetts" (Rober LaRussa, "CTFA plans strong effort to maintain animal tests," WWD, September 27, 1989). The article continued:
- E. Edward Kavanaugh, president of the CTFA, said the industry will mount a public relations and legislative campaign to provide lawmakers and the media with "objective information" about a "highly emotional" subject.
- "We are here to combat a very negative and -- from the standpoint of the American public -- very dangerous campaign that is being conducted in the name of animal rights," Kavanaugh said Tuesday at a Washington news conference. "Human safety is under attack."
- Although the CTFA wouldn't say how much it will spend on the campaign, a letter sent by Kavanaugh to industry members in June said the campaign would cost "$1 million beyond that provided in the 1989 CTFA budget."
According to WWD, CTFA retained the PR services of E. Bruce Harrison in its campaign to counter animal rights activists. In CTFA's $1 million PR fundraising drive, the association claimed that "animal rights fanatics threaten the very heart of our compact with our consumers" (James Erlichman, "Beauty firms fight back on animal tests," The Guardian (London), August 4, 1989). According to minutes of an April 15, 1987, meeting of the "Health and Safety Committee" of the industry group Chemical Manufacturers Association (CMA, now called the American Chemistry Council): 
- "The committee discussed the various animal rights bills pending that would restrict the use of animals for health effects testing. It agreed to gather more information on policies and positions that other trade and professional groups have adopted. The Health and Safety Committee recommended that CMA allow the Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association to take the lead advocacy role on this issue."
In 1991, WWD reported that CTFA was looking for allies to join its campaign against animal rights legislation. "I would like to think we are seeing a counter reaction to this in terms of the biomedical research," said Kavanaugh. "The American Medical Association and other groups are finally getting off their duffs a little bit and realizing the real threat of the animal rights groups. We couldn't get much attention from groups we thought would be natural allies five years ago." WWD noted, "The American Medical Association said it has not taken a position on the use of animal testing for cosmetics, but has worked aggressively to protect the ability of researchers to use animals for biomedical and pharmaceutical purposes" (Steve Farnsworth, "CFTA hopes to acquire allies in testing fight," Women's Wear Daily, March 1, 1991).
According to WWD, CTFA's efforts in fighting state-level legislation restricting animal testing for cosmetics ingredients included "hiring legislative and legal help in California," and "flying association experts to state capitals to testify on legislative proposals." Kavanaugh told WWD, "Ten states have bills pending in their legislatures to ban the use of animals in safety testing" (Steve Farnsworth, "CFTA hopes to acquire allies in testing fight," Women's Wear Daily, March 1, 1991). According to The Oregonian, these moves all came after CTFA "banded together in the face of demonstrations in 1980 to endow a research institute at the Johns Hopkins School of Public Health dedicated to finding methods to test products without using animals," called the Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing (Bryan Denson and James Long, "Terrorist Acts Provoke Change in Society," Newhouse News Service, October 12, 1999).
In May 2006, CTFA announced that it had hired Lisa Powers as their new Vice-President of Communications. Powers' previous positions include Senior Vice President of Public Relations for the Mercury Group and Manager of Communications and Public Relations at the Association of Womenâ??s Health, Obstetric and Neonatal Nurses. In a statement, CTFA president Pam Bailey said: 
- "Lisa Powers is a seasoned communications professional with impressive association and agency credentials, strong writing ability, and a background in health care advocacy communications. She brings a great understanding of high-profile media relations and interactive web communications that will further our ongoing efforts to ensure that consumers have the best information about cosmetics and personal care products."
In 2005, CTFA worked with the Sacramento-based PR firm Perry Communications Group. CTFA statements against California state bills SB 484 and AB 908 list Perry Communications staff as CTFA media contacts ("Statement From the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association on Governor Schwarzenegger's Signing of Damaging and Redundant SB 484," October 8, 2005; "Press Statement Regarding the Assembly Floor Vote on SB 484," September 1, 2005; "AB 908 Hearing Held Today; Expert Testimony Highlights Why Legislation to Ban Phthalates Is Unnecessary and Misleading," April 19, 2005; all distributed via PR Newswire). The CTFA Foundation has retained Hyde Park Communications to promote its "Look Good...Feel Better" campaign.  Hyde Park was involved in media outreach around the program's 16th anniversary in 2005 (CTFA statement distributed via PR Newswire, "Look Good ... Feel Better Strengthens Cancer Patients and Their Families; Program Celebrates 16 Years of Helping Women," January 17, 2005).
In February 2003, O'Dwyer's PR Services Report reported that CTFA had worked with the San Francisco-based PR firm Solem & Associates. Solem's specialties range "from environmental issues management and media relations to public opinion research and political campaign management," according to O'Dwyer's. The Solem website describes CTFA as a "long-time" client.   The Solem website states that the firm's account coordinator, Sarah Lynch, works on the CTFA account: "[Lynch's] clients include the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association and the Lead Pigment Retention Group, who are kept apprised of governmental issues through weekly research."  Other PR firms retained by CTFA, according to O'Dwyer's, include GCI Group in 1998-1999, a firm that specializes in "beauty and fashion brands"; Patrice Tanaka & Company in 1997, a firm that focuses on consumer, health and corporate issues; DeVries Public Relations in 1992-1994, promoting CTFA's "Look Good, Feel Better" program with cancer survivors; and Porter Novelli in 1992, a firm that "offers creative and strategically driven programs that respond to the distinctive needs of the beauty and fashion disciplines." (Porter Novelli signed CTFA as a client in 1989, according to the Washington Post on March 27, 1989.)
In 1992, the Public Relations Society of America gave CTFA and DeVries PR one of 21 "Big Apple Awards for excellence in PR," for "community relations" ("Ketchum, Dorf & Stanton taste most Big Apple Awards," O'Dwyer's PR Services, June 1992). In 1986, the National Journal reported that CTFA had hired Frank V. Fowlkes, described as an "editorial consultant" and former vice president of the Pharmaceutical Manufacturers Association. According to the article (Burt Solomon, "The Editorial 'We'," The National Journal, August 2, 1986):
- "For the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Fowlkes made 11 visits to editorial page offices last year that yielded 57 editorials (many from small chain-owned newspapers) in favor of permitting negligible amounts of carcinogens in cosmetic dyes. It's a cost-effective stratagem, Fowlkes believes. Visiting 100 newspapers would cost perhaps $ 80,000; directly lobbying to alter a few words in a bill might run more than $1 million."
In the second quarter of 2008, PCPC / CTFA spent $460,000, "to lobby on proposed regulations of cosmetics and other issues," including "funding for the Office of Cosmetic Colors within the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition at the Food and Drug Administration," reported Associated Press. From April to June 2008, the trade group lobbied Congress and the FDA. 
In June 2008, The Hill reported that CTFA / PCPC had hired Kountoupes Consulting to lobby "on proposed Food and Drug Administration (FDA) product safety legislation." Specific lobbyists on the account were "Lisa Kountoupes, former deputy assistant to the president for legislative affairs under the Clinton administration; and Julie Hershey Carr, former senior policy adviser to Rep. Joe Pitts (R-Pa.)." 
On June 1, 2006, CTFA hosted "Fragrance Day" on Capitol Hill, to "showcase the scientific, technological and physiological elements involved in creating fragrances" for members of Congress and their staff members. Honorary event hosts were Representatives Joe Baca (D-CA), Henry Bonilla (R-TX); Sue Kelly (R-NY); Carolyn Maloney (D-NY); Deborah Pryce (R-OH); and Linda Sanchez (D-CA). The event opened with "a VIP reception, by invitation only, for Congressional Members including members from the Committee on Energy and Commerce," followed by an "open house for members and staffers." Perks included free perfume samples from Estee Lauder, Ralph Lauren, Avon, Christian Dior and Giorgio Armani. 
In lobbying reports filed with the U.S. Senate Office of Public Records,  CTFA reported lobbying the U.S. Senate, House and FDA on four issues in 2005: S. 172, on "contact lens regulation"; H.R. 2744, on "FDA appropriations for fiscal [year] 2008"; S. 1391, which would "require manufacturers to disclose the chemicals in consumer products"; and H.R. 1507 and S. 729, on the "Independent Food Safety Administration."  
In 2004, CTFA reported lobbying on H.R. 3714 and S. 2007, dealing with BSE, or mad cow disease; H.R. 4768, on FDA appropriations; H.R. 4520 and S. 1637, on "Corporate Tax Reform"; H.R. 4673, on "Radio Frequency ID Tags"; S. 994, H.R. 2901, S. 157 and H.R. 1861, on "chemical security"; S. 1747 and H.R. 2218, "contact lens legislation"; and S. 1553, dealing with "retail theft prevention." 
Records filed with the California secretary of state show that CTFA retained three lobbying firms there in 2005: Livingston & Mattesich Law (from Jan to Oct 2005), Greenberg Traurig (from Oct 2005 onward), and Preston Gates Ellis (from Jan 2005 onward).  During California's 2005 - 2006 legislative session, CTFA spent more than $460,000 for "general lobbying." 
CTFA retained two lobbying firms during California's 2004 - 2005 legislative session: Livingston & Mattesich Law (from Jan 2003 onward) and Miller, Owen & Trost (from Jan 2003 to Sept 2004).  The total CTFA spent lobbying California's legislature during that session was nearly $550,000.  That level of lobbying spending is more than twice what CTFA spent during the 2003 - 2004 California legislative session. 
On the national level, CTFA retains several outside lobbyists and counsel, including Crowell & Moring International, Ltd; The Duberstein Group's Michael S. Berman, Steven M. Champlin, Kenneth M. Duberstein, Henry M. Gandy, and Daniel P. Meyer; and Stephen Michael and Frankie Trull at Policy Directions Inc., according to the online database Lobbyist.info (accessed May 5, 2006). In December 2005, The Hill reported (Tory Newmyer and Kate Ackley, "K Street Files," December 12, 2005):
- "The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association has continued its hiring spree, bringing aboard Francine Lamoriello as executive vice president for global strategies. Lamoriello previously served as senior international and business strategy advisor at the law firm Baker Donelson Bearman Caldwell & Berkowitz. In recent months, CTFA has hired a handful of people in government relations and policy, including Elvis Oxley, son of Rep. Mike Oxley (R-Ohio)."
The previous week, in the same column of The Hill, Newmyer and Ackley reported, "Kathleen Dezio is leaving her post as spokeswoman for the American Beverage Association to join the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, where she will serve as executive vice president of public affairs and communications." The online database Lobbyist.info lists the following people as CTFA's in house Washington DC-based lobbying staff include (Lobbyist.info accessed May 5, 2006):
- Pamela G. Bailey: President and Chief Executive Officer
- Kathleen Dezio: Executive Vice President, Public Affairs and Communications
- Thomas J. Donegan Jr.: Vice President, Legal and General Counsel
- John Hurson: Executive Vice President, Government Affairs
- Francine Lamoriello: Executive Vice President, Global Strategies
- M.C. Elvis Oxley: Senior Director, Government Affairs
- Louanne Roark: Executive Vice President, Business Development and Marketing
- Louis G. Santucci: Executive Vice President, Business Development and Marketing
- Michael F. Thompson: Vice President, Legislative Relations
Political action committee
CTFA runs a political action committee, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association Political Action Committee. According to the Center for Responsive Politics database, the PAC is a small one, only raising $49,325 and spending $32,650 in the 2004 election cycle. In 2004, the PAC gave 84% of its contributions to federal candidates to Republicans. 
CTFA files reports with the U.S. Internal Revenue Service for both the CTFA Foundation, a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, and CTFA, a 501(c)(6) business association. Both organizations use the same Washington DC office and similar staff and board members.  
In 2004, the CTFA Foundation reported $6,835,822 in revenue and $7,123,880 in expenses, including $5,754,580 spent on "cosmetics." Its sole "program service accomplishment" listed is "to improve the understanding of the importance of good grooming in enhancing the quality of life for chemotherapy patients," at a cost of $6,785,337 (see "Programs" section, below). 
In 2004, CTFA reported $13,909,007 in revenue and $14,341,448 in expenses, including $266,735 spent on legal fees, $1,541,636 on research, and $519,343 on "regulatory and legislative" matters. These are for its 501(c)(6) business association only. 
In addition to representing its member companies' interests, CTFA runs two programs. According to its website, CTFA's "Work Your Image!" program "provides women reentering the work force with guidance on hygiene and the importance of a professional appearance in getting and keeping a job."  This program, which is a joint effort with the Washington DC-based group Women Work!, was also expanded to the Hispanic community as "Mejora Tu Imagen!" 
CTFA's "Look Good...Feel Better" program is "a free, public service program that teaches makeup techniques to women undergoing cancer treatment, helping them to regain their self-confidence and to better cope with the appearance-related side effects of chemotherapy and radiation."  This program is run by CTFA's charitable arm, the CTFA Foundation, in partnership with the American Cancer Society and National Cosmetology Association.  In 2003, CTFA expanded its cancer outreach to teens, with the website 2bMe.org. 
In December 2008, Pamela Bailey announced she would be leaving as PCPC's President and CEO, a position she held since 2005. As of January 2009, Bailey will be President and CEO of the Grocery Manufacturers Association. 
At its 2008 annual meeting, the following people were named to the Personal Care Products Council Board of Directors and Officers: 
- Daniel Brestle - Chair (Estée Lauder Companies)
- Marc Pritchard - Immediate Past Chair (Procter & Gamble)
- Laurent Attal - Vice-chair (L'Oreal)
- Bradley Casper - Vice-chair (Dial Corporation)
- William J. Gentner - Vice-chair (KAO Brands Company)
- E. Scott Beattie - Treasurer (Elizabeth Arden)
- Linda R. Marshall - Secretary (Elysee Scientific Cosmetics)
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300
Washington D.C. 20036-4702
Phone: (202) 331-1770
Fax: (202) 331-1969
Articles & sources
- Campaign for Safe Cosmetics
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review
- American Council on Science and Health
- E. Bruce Harrison
- American Chemistry Council
- Andrea Jung - former chair
- ↑ Matthew W. Evans and Julie Naughton, "With New Name, Industry Group Retools for Future," Women's Wear Daily, February 22, 2008.
- ↑ "Personal care group spent $460K lobbying in 2Q," Associated Press, August 22, 2008.
- ↑ "Bottom Line," The Hill, June 23, 2008.
- ↑ "US: GMA Appoints New President & CEO," Namnews, December 11, 2008.
- ↑ "Leaders Gather at Personal Care Products Council Meeting," Global Cosmetics Industry, February 28, 2008.
See also PCPC: External Links.